Traditionally eaten in the southern Italian region of Campania, candele lunghi ("long candles") are lengthy, slightly irregular rolled pasta that are shaped like the tapers used in Catholic mass. Because the pasta is so long—often taller than the pasta pot!—it is usually broken into smaller pieces before boiling. Customize your pieces to the length you like best, but be sure to save any smaller fragments and toss them into the pot as well; these prized bites add textural variety to the finished dish and are a key part of the candele experience.
Since 1939, the Setaro family have been making pasta on a winding street in Torre Annunziata in Naples, known as the pasta capital of Italy. Their factory is on the same street, in fact, where Giada's grandfather once made his own pasta! The semolina flour they use is minimally processed, creating a more flavorful pasta than those found in the U.S. Setaro employs the traditional method of air-drying pasta in the cool, salt-tinged breezes that blow in through wild rosemary bushes from the Tyrrhenian Sea, a practice that makes for a delightfully chewy finished product.