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Palermo
Palermo

Giada's Guide to Palermo

Sicily’s largest city, Palermo has a lively urban atmosphere that may surprise those who arrive expecting an idyllic island getaway. (If that’s you, we recommend sticking to more peaceful towns like Taormina and Cefalù.) What Palermo offers is a vibrant city with a strong sense of culture, and there’s nowhere better to experience the resilient character and artistic soul of the true Sicily.

Everywhere you turn you’ll see traces of the island’s long history of colonization by civilizations from around the Mediterranean, from the lively marketplaces modeled on Tunisian souks from the time of Arab rule to glittering Byzantine churches and baroque Spanish palazzos. The food is similarly eclectic and always delicious, whether you’re stopping for street food or splurging on a multi-course meal.

Travel Tips

Arriving in Palermo can be overwhelming, and there are definitely some areas you’ll want to avoid at night. Our trick to getting accustomed to the city’s vibe fast is to book a tour with a local guide for the first day you’re here; they can help open your eyes to the unique culture and give you a sense of the neighborhoods you’ll want to explore on your own. 

Getting Around

The city is home to the island’s primary international airport, Palermo Airport (PMO), which is served from most major European and Italian airports. It’s about a half-hour ride in a cab or shuttle bus from the airport to the city center, or you can take the more leisurely train (about an hour) if you’d like to catch a glimpse of small-town Sicily along your way.

Once you’re in the central city, getting around on foot is easy, and taxis are readily available. The city bus system (known as AMAT) is fairly well-connected, but traffic restrictions in parts of the old city can slow you down. Uber is also available here, though only the pricier Uber Black or Uber Van (for larger groups) options. 

If you’re interested in using Palermo as a base for day trips along the eastern coast of the island, most hotels are happy to arrange an English-speaking driver for you. Be aware they can be quite costly (expect to pay around $300-$600/day); for the price, you’ll have a very comfortable ride and friendly driver who will be happy to give you local info and recommendations. If you’re arriving here and heading to your next base elsewhere in the island, the train system can get you there—just budget most of a day for the experience. 

Eat

   Casa Stagnitta

Casa Stagnitta

For more than 100 years, this coffee shop has been roasting its own beans and serving them up, alongside granitas (the coffee flavor, of course, is incredible) and pastries, on this small street in the historic city center. The son of the founder was once married to Letizia Battaglia, an important Italian photographer who documented Sicilian society during the mid-20th century, and her striking black-and-white photos are on display outside the shop.

Via Discesa dei Giudici, 46
+39 091 617 2819

   I Segreti del Chiostro

I Segreti del Chiostro

This not-so-secret bakery inside a convent began as a way to financially support the church centuries ago. Today, it continues to preserve this unique piece of history and carry on the traditional methods of the nuns here who make classic Sicilian desserts like cassata, sospiri di monaca, and cannoli (filled while you watch for maximum crunch). Enjoy your dolci in the church’s hushed, rose-filled garden for a break from the city’s buzz.

Via Discesa dei Giudici, 33
+39 327 588 2302

   Spinnato

Spinnato

Since 1860, this bakery has been selling delectable treats like marzipan fruits, nougat with local almonds, and pastries on the grand Piazza Castelnuovo. Enjoy an espresso and pastry outside on the piazza or take a box of sweets home.

Piazza Castelnuovo, 16
+39 091 329 220

   Osteria Alivàru

Osteria Alivàru

Photo Credit: Osteria Alivàru 

Alivàru is Sicilian for olive seller, which is what chef Carlo Napoli’s family has been doing in the Ballarò market for 130 years. His modern osteria is an ode to the incredible local ingredients found in that market, with fresh pastas, vegetable dishes like caponata, cheeses, and salumi. Dishes change frequently to follow what’s in season but they’re always outstanding, and prices are reasonable to ensure it’s beloved by locals. Be sure to check out the tempting list of wines from the area around Mount Etna.

Via del Vetriera, 1
+39 340 308 1048

   Fùnnaco Pizzalab

Fùnnaco Pizzalab

This popular pizzeria hosts a bustling, vibrant crowd seven days a week—it’s one of the few restaurants here that is open on Sundays! Make a reservation for some of the most delicious pizza you’ve ever had, like the Zaera, with toasted Sicilian almonds, fresh primosale cheese, yellow tomatoes, and citrus honey. Don’t skip the antipasti section of the menu, where crispy snacks like panelle and fresh-made potato chips with buffalo fonduta await.

Via Pantelleria, 19
+39 091 275 5021

   Made in Palermo

Made in Palermo

Sicily is known for its street food, which has been fueling on-the-go working people for centuries. This is where arancini originated, turning leftover rice into a portable meal, and fried snacks like panelle (a chickpea-flour fritter) and crocchè are late-night staples. This stand makes the best versions of these snacks, crispy and fresh, with flavorful fillings for a quick boost while you’re sightseeing.

Via Maqueda, 139
+39 339 637 4150

   Ferramenta

Ferramenta

This cocktail bar and restaurant in a former hardware store has a wonderful dark-wood interior left over from its past life, with ingenious tables made from storage drawers and display cases turned into wine storage. The knowledgeable bar staff make wonderful cocktails, and the wine selection is eclectic and local.

Piazza Giovanni Meli, 8
+39 392 294 3548

   Nauto

Nauto

This casual lounge-meets-beach club is a well-located spot for a break to recharge if you’re exploring the city’s waterfront and port. With a food truck and house DJ, it attracts a younger crowd who stop here to enjoy a drink with their feet in the sand.

Piazzetta Capitaneria di Porto
+39 339 667 7004

   A’Cala

A’Cala

For a sunset drink before dinner at nearby Funnacò, this waterfront wine bar and restaurant can’t be beat. Enjoy an aperitivo with a view on the patio overlooking the horseshoe-shaped port, where the sun’s fading rays sparkle through the masts of the docked boats.

Via Cala
+39 329 572 3333

Do

   Teatro Massimo

Teatro Massimo

In the 19th century, opera was so popular in Palermo that the city needed two grand opera houses to hold all its fans. This, the larger of the two, was completed in 1897 and is the biggest opera house in Italy. After falling into disrepair, it was revived in 1997, with its grand neoclassical façade and rich, red velvet-lined interiors a symbol of the city’s resilience. Walk in for a tour during the day or get the full experience at an opera or ballet performance (tickets start at 10 euros). If you have time, pop into the smaller Teatro Politeama Garibaldi just a few blocks away to compare.

Piazza Verdi
+39 091 6053580

   Crita Ceramiche

This small artist’s shop is a must-visit for hand-painted ceramics that play on Sicily’s traditional forms, like Moor’s Head busts and geometric patterning, while adding a quirky personal touch. It’s part of the city’s independent artists’ network, known as ALAB—if you spot their logo on a shop’s window, you know you’ve found something special. We wish we’d brought a bigger suitcase just to be able to bring home more of their pieces!

Via Discesa di Giudici, 11
+39 324 622 4029

   Piazza Aragona

Piazza Aragona

Sometimes known as “Artists’ Square,” this small piazza is lined with fun boutiques from independent artists and craftspeople. It has a lively, fun atmosphere in the evenings, and is a great place to shop for unique art, clothing, and home décor, or people-watch with an aperitivo from one of the cafes with tables outside.

Piazza Aragona

   Mercato del Capo

Mercato del Capo

On your way to the cathedral or Teatro Massimo? Stroll through this bustling street market that has existed since pirates used the narrow, winding streets to sell their ill-gotten loot. It’s been open every day for more than 1,000 years, and while many of the offerings today are on the touristy side, it’s still an incredible piece of history. Be sure to check out the textile vendors selling vibrantly printed fabrics with quintessentially Sicilian motifs.

Via Cappuccinelle

   Palazzo dei Normanni

Palazzo dei Normanni

In the 11th century, when Sicily was under Norman rule, this grand palace was a showcase for the empire’s strength. Over the years, it evolved and changed with each subsequent occupation, and today the UNESCO World Heritage Site is the seat of the local government assembly. Be sure to visit the Palatine Chapel on the second floor, whose walls and dome are so densely packed with Byzantine-era gold-leaf decoration it’s almost too beautiful to look at. 

Piazza del Parlamento, 1
+39 091 705 50611

   Mercato di Ballarò

Mercato di Ballarò

A thriving marketplace since the days of Arab rule in Sicily, this historic market was originally called Souk Al-Balhara. Remnants of that ancient market remain, especially in the singsong calls vendors use to entice shoppers over to their wares. Many of the vendors are family businesses that have been here for generations. The best stalls here sell fresh meat, fish, and produce—save the snacking for elsewhere—and this is the place to stock up on Sicilian salt, olives, and pistachios to bring home. (Note: only the shelled, raw pistachios are local!)

Piazzetta Boglino Luigi, 4

   Food Tour with Linda Sarris

Linda Sarris

Photo Credit: Linda Sarris

An American writer and chef who lives in Palermo, Linda Sarris gives the most knowledgeable tours of the city’s vibrant food scene, whether you’re interested in exploring the markets, vineyards, or sampling the most incredible street food. Let her curate a tour to your particular interests and you’ll discover a side of Palermo you couldn’t have found on your own.

Around Mercato di Ballarò

   Ponticello Acquerello

Ponticello Acquerello

Another member of the local artists’ collective ALAB, this small shop sells hand-painted watercolors and other small works on paper, shirts and bags with fun screen-printed motifs, and other artsy wares. It’s a great spot to shop for unique souvenirs that can easily work with your home’s decor while supporting a local artist.

Via del Ponticello, 32

   Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonino Salinas

Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonino Salinas

History buffs can’t miss a visit to this amazing museum of archeology, which boasts one of the largest collections of Ancient Greek artifacts in Italy. It presents an amazing view of the cultural history of Sicily, from its prehistoric indigenous peoples through the many different civilizations that colonized the island, all seen through the items they used—and discarded—over the centuries.

Piazza Olivella
+39 091 611 6805

Stay

   Villa Igiea

Villa Igiea

A luxurious oasis a short ride up the coast from the center of the city, this 19th-century palazzo-turned-hotel is a vision of old-world elegance. Rooms are outfitted with rich marble and lush textiles to sink into after a day of sightseeing, while the lush gardens and pool overlooking the sea entice you to stay a while longer. Don’t miss aperitivo hour in the fabulous sandstone-lined terrace bar!

Salita Belmonte, 43
+39 09 1631 2111

   Grand Hotel et des Palmes

Grand Hotel et des Palmes

On the edge of the historic city center, this conveniently located hotel is the perfect base for exploring the city. The ultra-friendly staff go out of their way to help with anything you might need, from taxis to dinner recommendations, day trip plans, and more. The included breakfast buffet is served in the former ballroom, a grand way to start your day.

Via Roma, 398
+39 091 804 8800
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