Giada's Guide to Palermo
Sicily’s largest city, Palermo has a lively urban atmosphere that may surprise those who arrive expecting an idyllic island getaway. (If that’s you, we recommend sticking to more peaceful towns like Taormina and Cefalù.) What Palermo offers is a vibrant city with a strong sense of culture, and there’s nowhere better to experience the resilient character and artistic soul of the true Sicily.
Everywhere you turn you’ll see traces of the island’s long history of colonization by civilizations from around the Mediterranean, from the lively marketplaces modeled on Tunisian souks from the time of Arab rule to glittering Byzantine churches and baroque Spanish palazzos. The food is similarly eclectic and always delicious, whether you’re stopping for street food or splurging on a multi-course meal.
Travel Tips
Arriving in Palermo can be overwhelming, and there are definitely some areas you’ll want to avoid at night. Our trick to getting accustomed to the city’s vibe fast is to book a tour with a local guide for the first day you’re here; they can help open your eyes to the unique culture and give you a sense of the neighborhoods you’ll want to explore on your own.
Getting Around
The city is home to the island’s primary international airport, Palermo Airport (PMO), which is served from most major European and Italian airports. It’s about a half-hour ride in a cab or shuttle bus from the airport to the city center, or you can take the more leisurely train (about an hour) if you’d like to catch a glimpse of small-town Sicily along your way.
Once you’re in the central city, getting around on foot is easy, and taxis are readily available. The city bus system (known as AMAT) is fairly well-connected, but traffic restrictions in parts of the old city can slow you down. Uber is also available here, though only the pricier Uber Black or Uber Van (for larger groups) options.
If you’re interested in using Palermo as a base for day trips along the eastern coast of the island, most hotels are happy to arrange an English-speaking driver for you. Be aware they can be quite costly (expect to pay around $300-$600/day); for the price, you’ll have a very comfortable ride and friendly driver who will be happy to give you local info and recommendations. If you’re arriving here and heading to your next base elsewhere in the island, the train system can get you there—just budget most of a day for the experience.
Eat
Casa Stagnitta
For more than 100 years, this coffee shop has been roasting its own beans and serving them up, alongside granitas (the coffee flavor, of course, is incredible) and pastries, on this small street in the historic city center. The son of the founder was once married to Letizia Battaglia, an important Italian photographer who documented Sicilian society during the mid-20th century, and her striking black-and-white photos are on display outside the shop.
I Segreti del Chiostro
This not-so-secret bakery inside a convent began as a way to financially support the church centuries ago. Today, it continues to preserve this unique piece of history and carry on the traditional methods of the nuns here who make classic Sicilian desserts like cassata, sospiri di monaca, and cannoli (filled while you watch for maximum crunch). Enjoy your dolci in the church’s hushed, rose-filled garden for a break from the city’s buzz.
Spinnato
Since 1860, this bakery has been selling delectable treats like marzipan fruits, nougat with local almonds, and pastries on the grand Piazza Castelnuovo. Enjoy an espresso and pastry outside on the piazza or take a box of sweets home.
Osteria Alivàru
Photo Credit: Osteria Alivàru
Alivàru is Sicilian for olive seller, which is what chef Carlo Napoli’s family has been doing in the Ballarò market for 130 years. His modern osteria is an ode to the incredible local ingredients found in that market, with fresh pastas, vegetable dishes like caponata, cheeses, and salumi. Dishes change frequently to follow what’s in season but they’re always outstanding, and prices are reasonable to ensure it’s beloved by locals. Be sure to check out the tempting list of wines from the area around Mount Etna.
Fùnnaco Pizzalab
This popular pizzeria hosts a bustling, vibrant crowd seven days a week—it’s one of the few restaurants here that is open on Sundays! Make a reservation for some of the most delicious pizza you’ve ever had, like the Zaera, with toasted Sicilian almonds, fresh primosale cheese, yellow tomatoes, and citrus honey. Don’t skip the antipasti section of the menu, where crispy snacks like panelle and fresh-made potato chips with buffalo fonduta await.
Made in Palermo
Sicily is known for its street food, which has been fueling on-the-go working people for centuries. This is where arancini originated, turning leftover rice into a portable meal, and fried snacks like panelle (a chickpea-flour fritter) and crocchè are late-night staples. This stand makes the best versions of these snacks, crispy and fresh, with flavorful fillings for a quick boost while you’re sightseeing.
Ferramenta
This cocktail bar and restaurant in a former hardware store has a wonderful dark-wood interior left over from its past life, with ingenious tables made from storage drawers and display cases turned into wine storage. The knowledgeable bar staff make wonderful cocktails, and the wine selection is eclectic and local.
Nauto
This casual lounge-meets-beach club is a well-located spot for a break to recharge if you’re exploring the city’s waterfront and port. With a food truck and house DJ, it attracts a younger crowd who stop here to enjoy a drink with their feet in the sand.
A’Cala
For a sunset drink before dinner at nearby Funnacò, this waterfront wine bar and restaurant can’t be beat. Enjoy an aperitivo with a view on the patio overlooking the horseshoe-shaped port, where the sun’s fading rays sparkle through the masts of the docked boats.
Do
Teatro Massimo
In the 19th century, opera was so popular in Palermo that the city needed two grand opera houses to hold all its fans. This, the larger of the two, was completed in 1897 and is the biggest opera house in Italy. After falling into disrepair, it was revived in 1997, with its grand neoclassical façade and rich, red velvet-lined interiors a symbol of the city’s resilience. Walk in for a tour during the day or get the full experience at an opera or ballet performance (tickets start at 10 euros). If you have time, pop into the smaller Teatro Politeama Garibaldi just a few blocks away to compare.
Crita Ceramiche
This small artist’s shop is a must-visit for hand-painted ceramics that play on Sicily’s traditional forms, like Moor’s Head busts and geometric patterning, while adding a quirky personal touch. It’s part of the city’s independent artists’ network, known as ALAB—if you spot their logo on a shop’s window, you know you’ve found something special. We wish we’d brought a bigger suitcase just to be able to bring home more of their pieces!
Piazza Aragona
Sometimes known as “Artists’ Square,” this small piazza is lined with fun boutiques from independent artists and craftspeople. It has a lively, fun atmosphere in the evenings, and is a great place to shop for unique art, clothing, and home décor, or people-watch with an aperitivo from one of the cafes with tables outside.
Mercato del Capo
On your way to the cathedral or Teatro Massimo? Stroll through this bustling street market that has existed since pirates used the narrow, winding streets to sell their ill-gotten loot. It’s been open every day for more than 1,000 years, and while many of the offerings today are on the touristy side, it’s still an incredible piece of history. Be sure to check out the textile vendors selling vibrantly printed fabrics with quintessentially Sicilian motifs.
Palazzo dei Normanni
In the 11th century, when Sicily was under Norman rule, this grand palace was a showcase for the empire’s strength. Over the years, it evolved and changed with each subsequent occupation, and today the UNESCO World Heritage Site is the seat of the local government assembly. Be sure to visit the Palatine Chapel on the second floor, whose walls and dome are so densely packed with Byzantine-era gold-leaf decoration it’s almost too beautiful to look at.
Mercato di Ballarò
A thriving marketplace since the days of Arab rule in Sicily, this historic market was originally called Souk Al-Balhara. Remnants of that ancient market remain, especially in the singsong calls vendors use to entice shoppers over to their wares. Many of the vendors are family businesses that have been here for generations. The best stalls here sell fresh meat, fish, and produce—save the snacking for elsewhere—and this is the place to stock up on Sicilian salt, olives, and pistachios to bring home. (Note: only the shelled, raw pistachios are local!)
Food Tour with Linda Sarris
Photo Credit: Linda Sarris
An American writer and chef who lives in Palermo, Linda Sarris gives the most knowledgeable tours of the city’s vibrant food scene, whether you’re interested in exploring the markets, vineyards, or sampling the most incredible street food. Let her curate a tour to your particular interests and you’ll discover a side of Palermo you couldn’t have found on your own.
Ponticello Acquerello
Another member of the local artists’ collective ALAB, this small shop sells hand-painted watercolors and other small works on paper, shirts and bags with fun screen-printed motifs, and other artsy wares. It’s a great spot to shop for unique souvenirs that can easily work with your home’s decor while supporting a local artist.
Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonino Salinas
History buffs can’t miss a visit to this amazing museum of archeology, which boasts one of the largest collections of Ancient Greek artifacts in Italy. It presents an amazing view of the cultural history of Sicily, from its prehistoric indigenous peoples through the many different civilizations that colonized the island, all seen through the items they used—and discarded—over the centuries.
Stay
Villa Igiea
A luxurious oasis a short ride up the coast from the center of the city, this 19th-century palazzo-turned-hotel is a vision of old-world elegance. Rooms are outfitted with rich marble and lush textiles to sink into after a day of sightseeing, while the lush gardens and pool overlooking the sea entice you to stay a while longer. Don’t miss aperitivo hour in the fabulous sandstone-lined terrace bar!
Grand Hotel et des Palmes
On the edge of the historic city center, this conveniently located hotel is the perfect base for exploring the city. The ultra-friendly staff go out of their way to help with anything you might need, from taxis to dinner recommendations, day trip plans, and more. The included breakfast buffet is served in the former ballroom, a grand way to start your day.
Get a taste of the region
Pesto From Trapani
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- $14.00
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- $15.00
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Oregano Spicy Sea Salt Seasoning
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- $11.00
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- $12.00
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Sea Salt Seasoning with Capers
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- $11.00
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- $12.00
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Organic Bay Leaves
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- $7.00
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- $7.50
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Dried Italian Lavender Sprigs
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- $7.00
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- $7.50
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Crunchy Caper Leaves
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- $20.00
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- $21.50
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Caper Fruits in Sea Salt
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- $15.00
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- $16.50
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Organic Sicilian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
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- $23.00
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- $25.00
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Organic Sage Sprigs
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- $7.00
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- $7.50
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