Guide to Florence
The capital of Tuscany, Florence is a marvel of sublime art and architecture surrounded by a rugged, fruitful countryside that has produced some of the true icons of Italian culture. From the Tuscan fields we get cucina povera, the art of making culinary gold like pappa al pomodoro and ribollita out of meager ingredients. Those fields also provide grazing land for the flavorful breed of cattle known as chianina, from which we get decadent bistecca Fiorentina and fine leather goods. All these and more can be found in Florence, making it a destination for some of the most hearty, satisfying meals in Italy.
Built on the banks of the Arno river, Florence was a center of international trade as the European capital for fine wool cloth. All that money coming in and out set the stage for powerful merchants like the Medici family to shape the city into a powerhouse of wealth and privilege. The Renaissance began here as artists and philosophers found wealthy patrons to sponsor their artistic innovations. Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, and countless others all made their home here, and their works can be seen all over town, but especially at the can’t-be-missed Uffizi Gallery. Whichever side of the river you choose for your home base, expect to spend plenty of time crossing back and forth on the city’s famous bridges!
Getting Around
Florence is home to a small international airport officially called Amerigo Vespucci airport, but commonly known as Peretola. It can be reached from a number of European destinations, including London, Paris, and Barcelona. If you’re arriving from within Italy, train travel is the best way to go, as the train station is well-located near the Santa Maria Novella church. Most everywhere you’ll want to go can be reached by walking (and many narrow streets in the historic center of town can only be seen by foot!), and taxis are available at stands near many of the major piazzas. But if you want to see more of the city, or if long walks aren’t an option for you, the city has a wide bus network with nearly 100 lines that reach the outskirts of town in all directions.
Eat
All’Antico Vinaio
Back in the day, Florence was a workers’ town, where cheap, filling food like sandwiches was in high demand. The panini here are still the best in Italy, both for their variety and the speed with which they’re constructed. Get the la Favolosa here, piled with salami and a pecorino cheese spread on freshly baked schiacciata bread (like focaccia, but risen longer for more flavor).
Arà: é Sicilia
Get a sweet taste of Sicily at this small shop that specializes in two of the island’s greatest grab-and-go foods: arancini and cannoli. The crisp, substantial arancini come with a variety of fillings, while the cannoli are made to order and topped with your choice of chopped pistachios, almonds, or candied orange peel.
Alla Vecchia Bettola
This hidden gem is tiny and always packed with a lively crowd, so be sure to call ahead for a reservation. The house pasta is to die for, as are the bistecca Fiorentina, veal chop, and chicken.
Caffé Gilli
This local institution, open since 1733, makes Giada’s pick for the best espresso in Florence. They also have great pastries and bagged biscotti and candies, which make nice souvenirs to bring home.
Cibrèo Teatro del Sale
Fabio Picchi is one of Italy’s most well-known chefs, and he has three restaurants on this little square. This is the most unique of them, tucked away in a members-only theater club. Pay a nominal “membership fee” to get in the door, and a delicious three-course meal is just the start—you’ll also get a live performance of either music, drama, or comedy, depending on the night.
Buca dell’Orafo
All of Florence feels ancient, but there’s nowhere that feels quite as outside of time as the stone-lined cavern that is Buca dell’Orafo. The restaurant is built into a 13th century stone castle that was once home to goldsmiths, but since 1945 has been dishing out delicious Tuscan food.
Buca Lapi
This Tuscan restaurant in a former wine cave is plastered with hundreds of vintage travel posters all across its arched ceiling, creating a magical out-of-time atmosphere. The bistecca fiorentina is amazing, and the fondant chocolate cake for dessert can’t be missed.
Babae Wine
This wine bar operates one of Florence’s most picturesque traditions: a wine window! From a tiny arched opening on the side of the building, you can order a glass of wine to enjoy on the street the way Florentine citizens have done for centuries. There are a few of historic holdovers still operating around the city, but this one is Giada’s favorite.
Ditta Artigianale
Coffee in Italy can be a very traditional affair; for a more modern approach, this coffee shop owned by an award-winning local barista feels like a little slice of Brooklyn, complete with hand-roasted, single origin beans.
Golden View Open Bar
They’re not kidding about that view! Golden View has been a favorite for years, both for its gorgeous, art filled interior and its great view of the Ponte Vecchio. The tomato bruschetta (listed as “croutons” on the English menu) is amazing.
Gelateria Dei Neri
This little gelato shop has a rainbow selection of gorgeously fresh flavors like rose, gorgonzola and walnut, and green apple. Make sure to try Giada’s all-time favorite, the ricotta with fig.
Gelateria La Sorbettiera
This artisanal gelateria specializes in modern, creative flavors like lemongrass-coconut milk and New England 1776, with maple syrup and candied bacon. A little off the beaten path, it’s often less crowded than other gelato shops in the city.
Il Latini
Dinner at Il Latini is always a party - tables are long, banquet style arrangements, so you'll almost definitely be seated with strangers who'll quickly become friends. And while you can order a la carte, it's best to put yourself in the kitchen's hands and go with the set menu. You'll end up with 5-course meal served family style that is crowned by a glorious bistecca Fiorentina that's bigger than the plate it's served on.
Il Santo Bevitore
When a restaurant is lined with wine bottles, you know it’s going to be good. Il Santo Bevitore delivers on that promise, with a great wine list, plus locally grown vegetables, creative meat dishes, Santo Bevitore and brilliant pastas. This neighborhood restaurant is a favorite with young locals, so be sure to call ahead for a reservation.
Il Santino
If you couldn’t get a reservation at Il Santo Bevitore or if you’re just waiting for your table, grab a drink and a snack at its sister bar down the street. The 20-person spot is more than a little cozy, but the wine, cheese, and bruschetta more than make up for it with their delicious variety.
La Terrazza
One of the best ways to see Florence’s stunning geography is from up high—that’s why rooftop bars are so popular here. The relaxed lounge atmosphere at La Terrazza is much nicer than the high-pressure scene at some of the other bars in town.
Le Volpi e L’Uva
Locals in Florence stop in at little wine bars like this one for a bicchiere or two of wine and a snack before going out for dinner. The wine list here is fantastic—lots of lesser-known French and Italian varieties—and the staff is super helpful and ready to provide recommendations.
Trattoria Cammillo
For a special night out, there’s no place better than Cammillo. Giada filmed the Florence episode of Giada in Italy right near this very traditional trattoria, and it became hands-down her favorite restaurant in town. She loves the chicken curry (really!), fritto misto, and all the pastas.
Trattoria Sostanza
This homey trattoria with a truly tiny kitchen where the chef cooks over live coals has been a local favorite since 1869. They specialize in deliciously simple dishes made with expert care, like their luxurious signature dishpetti di pollo al burro(chicken with butter) and the incredibletortino di caciofi, an artichoke frittata that’s unlike any other. Don’t skip dessert if the chocolate chip meringue with wild strawberries is on the menu!
4 Leoni
This trattoria on the Piazza della Passera has a big outdoor patio that gets lovelier as dusk falls. They are famous for their fiocchetti di pera (pasta with taleggio and pear).
Do
Boboli Gardens
Behind the Palazzo Pitti are these highly landscaped gardens designed for the Medicis, dotted with fountains, statues, and grottoes. When they were built in the 16th century, the gardens’ strikingly open design inspired copycats across Europe, including the gardens at Versailles. If you’re visiting in spring, make sure to seek out the newly restored camellia garden to catch the gorgeous flowers in bloom.
Carousel at the Piazza della Repubblica
This antique wooden carousel is more than 100 years old but still operates regularly in the large piazza, to the delight of local children and visitors alike. Owned by the Picci family, it’s beautifully maintained and painted with colorful scenes of different Italian cities.
Duomo di Firenze
Originally built between the 13th and 15th centuries, the dome of this stunning cathedral can be seen from far across the city. Inside, that dome is painted with an incredible fresco by Renaissance master Giorgio Vasari. That masterwork, combined with the incredibly ornate, multicolor marble façade added in the 19th century, make the Duomo a must-visit for art-lovers.
Galleria dell’Accademia
The gallery of the city’s Academy of Fine Arts is home to the world’s largest collection of works by Michelangelo, including his iconic David, housed in its own specially constructed domed room. Don’t miss the tucked away museum of musical instruments on the ground floor behind the special exhibition hall; it holds the Medicis’ private collection of historic pieces including the world’s first upright piano and a perfectly preserved Stradivarius viola.
Gucci Garden
Inside this unassuming-looking palazzo is a vibrant collection of experiences from the boundary pushing fashion house, including a delicious osteria from Michelin starred chef Massimo Bottura. Be sure to walk through the boutique to the museum, which showcases the house’s innovative designs from 1921 through today. The adjoining book store is a great place to pick up a stylish souvenir without the luxury-brand sticker shock!
LuisaViaRoma
For a department store experience, you can't get better than this well curated destination founded in 1929, which stocks all the coolest designers of men's and womenswear, plus accessories and home goods.
Madova
Leather goods are a Florentine tradition—fitting for a city that specializes in beef! There are many quality glove makers in town, but this 100-year-old institution at the base of the Ponte Vecchio is the best of the best. Let the experts measure your hands to find the perfect fit, and on't leave without trying a pair made from cinghale, wild boar leather, which feels like unbelievably soft suede.
Mercato Centrale
This stunning two-story food market was built in the 1870s and still serves as a daily shopping stop for many Florentines to get fresh produce and wild-caught seafood. Stroll the upper-level food court to sample a variety of Florence’s favorite street food, including rich porchetta and hearty lampredotto, as well as pizzas, wine, and even sushi.
Musée Salvatore Ferragamo
Shoe lovers can’t miss a stop at this museum dedicated to the designer who created iconic footwear for movie stars from the 1920s until his death in 1960. The cozy museum packs in thousands of pairs of gorgeous shoes from the company’s archives into its nine rooms.
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella
This may the oldest existing pharmacy in the world, established by the monks of the Church of Santa Maria Novella in the 13th century. It’s like no other pharmacy we know, specializing instead in perfumes, herbal products, and skincare (Giada’s beauty go-to is their rose water spray). The shop, which doubles as a museum, is absolutely stunning, adorned with ceiling frescoes and ancient details like soap-making equipment from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Ponte Vecchio
The best-known and oldest of Florence’s bridges, the Ponte Vecchio is the only river crossing that was not destroyed during WWII (the others were rebuilt after the war ended). It’s easy to spot thanks to the enclosed Vasari corridor that runs over top of the roadway, once a private escape route for the Medicis. Long a location for merchants to set up shop, the bridge is now known for the tiny wooden jewelers’ shops that line its sides.
Uffizi Gallery
You can’t come to Florence and not spend at least a little time admiring some Renaissance art! The first modern museum, the Uffizi was built in the 16th century as an office building for Cosimo I de’ Medici, who filled it with artworks that could be viewed by the public on request. All of the masters of the era can be found there—Botticelli, Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Giotto, and many more. The Uffizi is reliably busy; your best bet is to buy a ticket online in advance (tickets can be purchased up to six months ahead) for entry first thing in the morning to avoid the worst of the crowds.
Stay
AdAstra
Tucked into a lavish mansion, this 14-room boutique hotel overlooking the Torrigiani gardens makes a perfect retreat from the busy city. The rooms are charmingly eclectic and elegantly decorated, and each is outfitted with its own espresso machine for your morning caffeine fix.
Brunelleschi Hotel
Named for the Renaissance painter who once lived here, this boutique hotel is partially housed in a historic circular tower that was built in the 6th century. In addition to comfortably outfitted rooms, many of which have views of the Duomo, the hotel has its own archeological museum displaying the remains of the Roman baths that were found underneath the tower.
Hotel Lungarno
On the livelier side of the river, the Portrait’s sister is just as thoughtfully luxurious with a more classic vibe. Blue-and-white houndstooth and stripes give a slightly nautical feeling, as do the sweeping views of the river from the public spaces and many rooms. Keep your eyes open for the incredible 20th-century art collection, including Picasso prints in the Picteau Bar.
Portrait Hotel
One of two sister properties that flank the Arno river owned by the Ferragamo family, this hotel is just as stylish as you would expect. Rooms are sleek and minimal, filled with luxurious touches like cashmere blankets and a high quality hair dryer and straightener in the bathroom.
Explore the flavors of Tuscany
Panforte Almond & Fruit Cake
- Regular Price
- $25.50
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- per
Mustard Large
- Regular Price
- $20.50
- Unit Price
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